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Some terms...
"coin mechanism" (or "coin mech")
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One term I actually knew
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So I'm suspecting that the coin switch isn't hooked up... that's super easy, it's just a ground wire and a signal wire, just like any button that the player uses on the control panel. For home use this probably isn't even necessary as most games can be setup for "free play" so no coins needed.
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The cabinet is going into a store so I will need to hook it up
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Those "X in 1" JAMMA PCBs blow, they're basically just a cheap computer running MAME, and most of them don't receive any substantial testing so they run like dog poo...
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60 in 1 will be removed shortly after fixing the screen
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"JAMMA" stands for "Japanese Arcade Machine Manufacturers Association" and it's basically just the name of the connector that plugs into the PCB ("Printed Circuit Board" aka the "game board"/brains/etc.) The connector is just a standard shape and pin layout and covers "everything" the PCB needs, so it's just 1 connector

This came about because early on every game would use different style connectors so you had to re-wire the whole machine if you wanted to put a different game in it... with JAMMA all the arcade companies got together and agreed on a standard way to do things so that you could easily swap games.
Because it came about in the mid-80s there are Some draw backs due to short-slightness:
1. it only supports up to 1 speaker (aka Mono audio)
2. it only supports up to 2 players
3. it only supports up to 3 action buttons per player
4. it doesn't support light guns or steering wheels or other non-standard controls)
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Something else I knew.. Googled it just after I won the machine
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Because of this games that require more buttons or more speakers or other style controls will often have extra connectors IN ADDITION to the JAMMA connector to handle that stuff.
So, for instance Most 6 button fighters use an extra connector called a "JAMMA+" connector or a "Kick Harness" which adds the 6 extra kick buttons necessary for both players.
The best setup is to buy a real arcade JAMMA PCB and just plug it in and enjoy it... they do make "JAMMA Switchers" for people who want to run multiple JAMMA boards on a single cabinet without having to swap them out all the time.
If you do decide to go the MAME route, then I would recommend buying a J-PAC and hooking it up to a PC running HypeSpin as your interface.
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I would prefer to just dedicate the machine to one game like TMNT or street fighter ect
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blurring issues are most likely due to a failing "flyback" this is the big black component on the "monitor chassis" (this is the name for the monitor's circuit board) with the big thick wire that attaches to the tube. If you have some basic soldering skills a new one usually costs about $30-$40 (USD). It's probably also a good idea to "cap the monitor" or "do a cap kit" this basically means desoldering all of the capacitors (the little metal cylinder things) and soldering on new ones... a lot of people sell "cap kits" that include all the parts you need for about $10-$15 (though you'll need to figure out which make and model your monitor is so you order the right kit). Basically capacitors wear out, they'll get bloated and start to leak and generally don't work so well after a while.
I cap the monitor on everyone of my arcade machines "whether they need it or not"... if it's more than 10 or 15 years old, it's probably due.
If all of this seems too much for you there are a number of people who do CRT Chassis rebuilds and repairs for around $75-$150 depending on the monitor that that usually includes all parts and return shipping. A quick search turned this up for Australia: http://www.jomac.net.au/mon.htm
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I've been planing to learn to solder
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Some games use vertical monitors usually classics like Donkey, Kong, Space Invaders, Pac Man etc are all designed to work on a vertical monitor. The only modern games that still use that layout are SHUMPS like Ikaruga or Espagaulda
Generally rotating the monitor is pretty simple but it varies from cabinet to cabinet. You'll need to take the glass off in front of the monitor, and there are probably 4 big bolts holding the monitor frame to the cabinet... unbolt these, pull the monitor out, rotate it, and put it back in. get someone to help you though... those monitors are heavy as hell.
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The 60 in 1 is pretty much games like pac man and galaga
Not sure if you looked at the eBay link but I'm guessing from the build purpose I will need a jamma+ to be able to just stick in a fighting game card
Thanks for the help if I run into trouble I will come back (probably when its time to reattach something I dislodged)