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For instance I'm currently building a Fit It Felix Jr cabinet that will also be a MAME cabinet, Fix it Felix Jr has a 4-way ball top, 2 action buttons and 2 start buttons as well as a Vertical 19" CRT Arcade monitor, so that is 100% of what the controls will be, nothing extra, nothing more. When I put games into MAME I'm only loading on games that work within that control scheme (eg: Donkey Kong, Galaxian, Pac Man, etc.) Basically ONLY games designed for a vertical monitor, 2 or 4 way joystick, 1 player at a time, and 0-2 action buttons. It might seem limiting but there are still 100s of classic games that fit within that setup, and the experience of playing them will still be very close if not exactly like playing them on an original, dedicated, machine. As for the N64 ports... personally, I would avoid adding ports for normal controllers, I don't see people wanting to stand up in front of the machine holding a controller playing, especially when they could just as easily be playing on a larger TV while sitting on a comfy couch just a short distance away. I guess I don't really get the idea of playing console style games on an arcade cabinet. Quote:
The "coin door" is the door that holds all of the parts related to accepting currency. The "coin slot" is where you put your money, it rolls down a "coin chute" and drops into the "coin mechanism" (or "coin mech") which is what validates whether the coin will drop past the "coin switch" into the "coin box" or get rejected into the "coin return" So I'm suspecting that the coin switch isn't hooked up... that's super easy, it's just a ground wire and a signal wire, just like any button that the player uses on the control panel. For home use this probably isn't even necessary as most games can be setup for "free play" so no coins needed. Quote:
"JAMMA" stands for "Japanese Arcade Machine Manufacturers Association" and it's basically just the name of the connector that plugs into the PCB ("Printed Circuit Board" aka the "game board"/brains/etc.) The connector is just a standard shape and pin layout and covers "everything" the PCB needs, so it's just 1 connector ![]() This came about because early on every game would use different style connectors so you had to re-wire the whole machine if you wanted to put a different game in it... with JAMMA all the arcade companies got together and agreed on a standard way to do things so that you could easily swap games. Because it came about in the mid-80s there are Some draw backs due to short-slightness: 1. it only supports up to 1 speaker (aka Mono audio) 2. it only supports up to 2 players 3. it only supports up to 3 action buttons per player 4. it doesn't support light guns or steering wheels or other non-standard controls) Because of this games that require more buttons or more speakers or other style controls will often have extra connectors IN ADDITION to the JAMMA connector to handle that stuff. So, for instance Most 6 button fighters use an extra connector called a "JAMMA+" connector or a "Kick Harness" which adds the 6 extra kick buttons necessary for both players. The best setup is to buy a real arcade JAMMA PCB and just plug it in and enjoy it... they do make "JAMMA Switchers" for people who want to run multiple JAMMA boards on a single cabinet without having to swap them out all the time. If you do decide to go the MAME route, then I would recommend buying a J-PAC and hooking it up to a PC running HypeSpin as your interface. Quote:
I cap the monitor on everyone of my arcade machines "whether they need it or not"... if it's more than 10 or 15 years old, it's probably due. If all of this seems too much for you there are a number of people who do CRT Chassis rebuilds and repairs for around $75-$150 depending on the monitor that that usually includes all parts and return shipping. A quick search turned this up for Australia: http://www.jomac.net.au/mon.htm Quote:
Generally rotating the monitor is pretty simple but it varies from cabinet to cabinet. You'll need to take the glass off in front of the monitor, and there are probably 4 big bolts holding the monitor frame to the cabinet... unbolt these, pull the monitor out, rotate it, and put it back in. get someone to help you though... those monitors are heavy as hell. Last edited by twistedsymphony; 11-06-2013 at 04:08 PM. |
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