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Old 03-17-2013, 07:30 AM
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Dreamcazman Dreamcazman is offline
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Default Framing lithographs

I'm on the hunt for a suitable frame for my Skyrim lithograph, it's 24x36 so it's not exactly small. I don't want to buy a 'cheap' frame as I want to make sure the lithograph is well protected so I'm looking into custom framing.

Frist off, the picture won't be hanging in direct sunlight so I don't think I need to go to the expense of UV glass, but is normal glass ok, or should I go for perspex (plexi glass)?

Also from what I've read, it's best to have a mat around the edge so the litho doesn't actually come in contact with the glass, but AFAIK that involves sticking it to the backing board, something I don't really want to do if I ever want to remove it.

Anyone knowledgeable in this area?
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:36 AM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

will follow this thread with great interest. Have more or less the same questions.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:16 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamcazman View Post
I'm on the hunt for a suitable frame for my Skyrim lithograph, it's 24x36 so it's not exactly small. I don't want to buy a 'cheap' frame as I want to make sure the lithograph is well protected so I'm looking into custom framing.

Frist off, the picture won't be hanging in direct sunlight so I don't think I need to go to the expense of UV glass, but is normal glass ok, or should I go for perspex (plexi glass)?

Also from what I've read, it's best to have a mat around the edge so the litho doesn't actually come in contact with the glass, but AFAIK that involves sticking it to the backing board, something I don't really want to do if I ever want to remove it.

Anyone knowledgeable in this area?
This is a real easy answer. Take it in to get professionally framed & be done with it. You may not need UV glass now but think of the future,you dont want to have go through the hassle of re-framing it when you decide you want to hang it somewhere else where there is sunlight. I have looked around & theres not many ready made frames with UV glass,so best bet is professional job. UV glass is exspensive but worth it for piece of mind. Try ringing a few local places,specify what you want & see what prices you get. With UV glass most places have to buy a certain size or amount,so there are times when a place may have left overs from another job & give you a better price. As example original cost for two litho with UV glass to be framed $400,because they had leftover UV glass quote came down to $190.Admittingly the lithos i have already have a backing board but this wont cost much to have done right wen getting framed right. Biggest cost as always is simply decent UV glass
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:53 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

Quote:
Originally Posted by HIPPEEDUDE View Post
This is a real easy answer. Take it in to get professionally framed & be done with it. You may not need UV glass now but think of the future,you dont want to have go through the hassle of re-framing it when you decide you want to hang it somewhere else where there is sunlight. I have looked around & theres not many ready made frames with UV glass,so best bet is professional job. UV glass is exspensive but worth it for piece of mind. Try ringing a few local places,specify what you want & see what prices you get. With UV glass most places have to buy a certain size or amount,so there are times when a place may have left overs from another job & give you a better price. As example original cost for two litho with UV glass to be framed $400,because they had leftover UV glass quote came down to $190.Admittingly the lithos i have already have a backing board but this wont cost much to have done right wen getting framed right. Biggest cost as always is simply decent UV glass
Just use a UV filter screen over your actual windows - I have a museum grade and is significantly cheaper than UV protection glass + it also protects all my games from sunlight and fading.
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:57 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

You can do two things that will preserve them.

1. Traditional framing
2. Mount them on dibond with a finish

- A mat is important, direct contack between artwork and glass is bad. This especially applies to glossy works.
- Acid-free materials all they way. Acid-free isn't just acid-free.
- Glass is heavy, epsecially at the size of the Skyrim litho.
- Choosing a white mat for a litho isn't enough, as white isn't just white.
- The process should be reversible, meaning you can get the litho out of the frame without any damage.

It is possible to use a mat without permanently fixing the artwork to a backing board. It can be done with tape or "small corners".

Museum glass has these benefits:

- Low reflection
- Transparency
- UV-protection
- Authentic color rendering

Personally I prefer Dibond with acryllic glass because it completely seals the artwork. In the past I've had bad experiences with framers who left dust under the glass, "gaping" mats etc. And these were all professional...

Traditional framing



Dibond with a finish

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Last edited by rasmusvn; 03-17-2013 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:24 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

All in all, if you want to save yourself time and hassle a frame shop is the way to go, and I think others above have made solid suggestions for how to approach it.

If you're trying to save money, some shops sell lengths of framing pieces where you choose what you need, then you buy corner brackets and assemble yourself. It is less expensive than buying a custom frame, but you don't get many options for the style/color of the frame (pretty much just black, silver, brown, and maybe white -- it's been a number of years since I've looked at them). You can then have a framing shop cut the mat for you, which is pretty inexpensive (plus it will turn out better than trying to do it yourself because most use very precise computerized cutters now). Use archival safe tape to affix your pieces to the matting. With regard to glass, even if it is not in direct sunlight your art is still going to fade. There should be some type of uv barrier between the sun and your art, whether you do that with screens (as mentioned above) or with glass...

The dibond route is awesome too, but I don't know what that would cost to send out and have done, might not be a low cost solution. Rasmusvn can you give an idea on this?

Last edited by toxicatom5; 03-17-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:43 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

I've been qouted a price of EUR 85 for 18x24. I'm not sure whether this is the general price.

Another option is dibond + gloss finish. Need I say more that it involves pouring epoxy resin and a blow torch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUboGu2WiQ0

Notice that not all paper is suited for this due to the use of whiteners, inks used etc.

I forgot to mention that it is possible to frame without a mat and stille preserve the print. This is done by placing spacers along the edge of the print so it doesn't touch the glass.
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Last edited by rasmusvn; 03-17-2013 at 01:49 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-17-2013, 02:19 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmusvn View Post
lol! Eventhough I've seen the results and know that it is a great way to display a print, it seems insane to subject a print to this process once you see it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:28 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

Geez,if i spent a fair chunk of change on a picture i wouldnt want that dibond method. If anything goes wrong your screwed,especially if you cant replace the print. Maybe this would be okay for some things but not for a litho thats for example only 100 ever made,not worth the risk. Besides,it may even possibly de-value the litho by doing it this way,there will be some purists that wont even touch it afterwards.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:34 PM
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Default Re: Framing lithographs

Yeah, I definitely wouldn't do dibond. Maybe for the Cook and Becker prints (that is what they're called, isn't it? The Mirror's Edge/Mass Effect ones, etc?) since you can choose to have them like that from the start, so if they went wrong, I assume they would replace it there and then, instead of sending you a fucked up one. But even at that, I'd probably choose a different method, so it isn't permanently like that.

Does anyone know... can dibond crack? For example, if during a house move, you dropped it. Could it crack?

If so, then that's a definite no-no for me (since it'd ruin the print inside) xx
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